2011 planting zone - update

As some of you know I have just taken 10 days out and spent some time in Dubai; sun, heat, sand etc etc

Not a place for growing dahlias methinks!  Water is prohibitively expensive to use in gardens and it does get hot in the summertime often reaching 50C.

Anyways, I did think that on return I'd get to grips with weed killing the grass ready to rotovate the planting area; it seems to have rained a lot, not only is the grass and weed very wet still but so is the ground, I think it needs to dry out some before weed killers will be effective.  Guess I'll have to put it off for a while longer.

Dahlia jobs in March

For those of you that are propagating from your tubers, they were, in  February, set down and by March should have shoots long enough to begin taking cuttings (75mm - 100mm).  Cut the stem a leaf axil or two above the "heel", or point where the shoot emerges from the crown; this will encourage further shoots to sprout from the leaf axils.

Before and After images; the cutting will then be trimmed below the leaf axil, the leaves removed, dipped in hormone rooting compound and "dibbed" into the John Innes Seed compost in the trays.

Avoid taking hollow, "pipey" shoots for cuttings as they tend to be more difficult to root.  The shoots that follow from the leaf axil will be of much better quality.  If you do wish to use these cuttings ensure that  when you trim the stem below the leaf axil it is solid with no hollowness at all; this will give the cutting a better chance of growth.  Water as necessary to keep from drying out but do not over-water as this will only encourage damping off.

Start dahlias from seed towards the end of the month in a heated greenhouse or propagator.

If you do not have a greenhouse March is the time to start off the tubers in trays as described in February and the time to prepare the growing area ready for planting out the divided tubers in April.

Taking cuttings

Dahlia season 2011 is really underway now.  I took the first cuttings today 4 weeks after setting the tubers down on the benches (in trays).

The first photo is the cutting as removed from the tuber.  When removing cut below a leaf axil leaving enough stem to trim and leaving a leaf axil on the tuber to produce more shoots.  Use a VERY sharp knife, if you do not have a gardeners propagating knife a modelling blade would be useful.  The knife I use is Victorinox and is Swiss.  The blade can be honed to razor sharp on a very fine smoothing/sharpening stone.  These may be purchased from any good garden centre and cost around £12 - £15 seem to remember.  

Trim neatly below the leaf axil and remove the two leaves.  Dip in water and then in rooting compound, I use Seradix / Strike as this is very reliable.  I did try an organic compound a few years ago and lost 85% of the cuttings I had used it for.

The first tray of cuttings planted in John Innes Seed compost.  If using JI Seed do try to obtain correctly mixed compost.  There are many on the market that may have the correct mix but are not using steralised loam and a good 'grainy' sand.

Dahlia jobs in February

For those with a heated greenhouse who wish to propagate from their own stock now is the time to get started.  Take from the winter store the quantity you will be using.  Trim off the fibrous roots and stems and place carefully in shallow trays on a layer of sifted compost.  Cover lightly, but not the stems or crown, and water well.

For those with no heated greenhouse: carry out routine inspections as for January.

2011 planting zone

Well, this is where the dahlias will be planted out this year; bit of work to do methinks!  Apologies here and now for the rubbish video clip, I'm better at growing dahlias than filming!

The trees stay, so a planting plan to incorporate them is a pre-requisite.  I could plant in traditional commercial style beds, boring - yawn - yawn, or be creative and plant out in shaped beds.  As this will be the "showcase" my thoughts are moving towards the more creative which *could* be spectacular when viewed from the higher ground as there is a large enough gradient to provide a viewing point in the area beyond the fir tree 3 - 4 seconds into the clip.

However, any shaped beds have to work logistically as the blooms will be harvested through the season for the cut flower trade we do.

Next task is to cultivate ... must rush into it though .. delay and procrastinate as long as possible!

Pop back soon for project updates please!  (and leave comments!)

Additional cultivars for 2011 season

I have added a few more cultivars to the list for 2011, a mix of good exhibition and those for garden.  That's not to say the exhibition cultivars are not good in the garden, they are excellent!   It is more that garden dahlias are not good for exhibitions.
Cultivars that are good for exhibiting are those that conform to the criteria for the particular class in form, and size,  They should consistently produce blooms that are well presented on the stem, are good colour and, of course, as close to perfect in petal formation.

The additions:

• Debra Anne Craven - a red Giant Semi Cactus, i.e. blooms greater than 260mm
• Wootton Impact - an orange / cream blend Medium Cactus suitable for exhibiting
• Black Narcissus - an intense dark red medium semi cactus, great in a border complementing orange and red cultivars.
• David Howard - Min Dec, orange blooms on dark, almost black, foliage.  An old favourite, can't think why I haven't grown it before!
• Karma Naomi - a red Small Dec, like all Karma's a very good cut flower that lasts well in the vase.
• Ruskin Marigold - an orange Small Semi Cactus.  A very pretty little dahlia with good enough form to be an exhibitor.

All these can be seen on the web site www.withypitts-dahlias.co.uk follow the link under Latest News.

Starting off

2011 season has now really started.  My tubers are now set down in trays, lightly covered in a light, peat-like,  all purpose compost, watered and slugs "fed".

As you will notice the slugs have been "fed" with regular pellets.  A couple of years ago I did try organic slug treatments but they simply loved it and destroyed all the first growth shoots; never again.  As a matter of interest, I also tried organic rooting compounds; no good at all, it just did not work.  So, I'm back to Seradix / Strike, it does work.  Last year I spoke with one of the assistants at the local garden centre and commented about rooting compounds.  He told me they had largely withdrawn the organic as it didn't work but kept some on the shelves for those who really wanted to use it.

If you look closely you will see that the tubers in the right hand tray are already showing growth.  Pontiac, in my view, is one of the easiest dahlias to propagate, it always sprouts quickly, always roots easily and is very prolific.

I expect to start to take cuttings in three weeks time, some good sunny weather would be good as good daylight always helps stimulate the production of shoots and the rooting of the cuttings.